High Performance Big Block Cadillacs
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Author Topic: Cad 500 in A body  (Read 52782 times)
steelybill
C3
***
Posts: 190


« Reply #105 on: April 22, 2011, 12:37:10 AM »

 I finally have the left exhaust pipe built from mandrel bent pieces that I bought from Summit.  Right now I'm thinking about going with Rhoads lifters, (V-max?) the type with the oil groove, for a little more cam/lifter lube. And I like the way they tame a cam somewhat at idle.  I like the one I have in a 400 Chevy engine, with more vacuum for brakes etc.
   Still up in the air about the 2115 manifold, but a Sanden AC compressor is a lot lighter than the old A-6, and if I wind up with a Sanden, the intake will have one requirement already, to use AC with the 2115.
   I also have the wiring routed to the cavity under the front of the bed, for an electric fuel pump.  A heavy (#12) for the pump, and a smaller wire for a relay, also mounted back there, to feed the pump. Still need to get an oil pressure switch for the relay power.

  And I had to lengthen the adjusting center pieces on the upper control arms for the Ford rear end, to get the pinion angle set right.

     Just all kinds of fun happening here Smiley
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~JM~
Shop Keeper
C5
*****
Posts: 1853


« Reply #106 on: April 22, 2011, 10:18:01 AM »

Keep banging away at it & smoky burn outs will soon follow. Cool

~JM~

PS. I think you will like the Rhoads lifters.
Logged

PS. You don't have enough cam. Grin

...Summit has a kit for $99.... Shocked
steelybill
C3
***
Posts: 190


« Reply #107 on: May 07, 2011, 08:36:25 PM »

 Yeah, I'm still "banging away" !   I rewired the feed (#10) from the starter to the fuse block etc, and didn't have a new fusible link.  I ended up using a maxi-fuse holder and fuse in the feed wire, located on the fire wall where it's easy to get to.
   The fan, a 7-blade with a clutch, was kinda close to the right side of the shroud, so I did some surgery on the shroud in a few places to move it about 1/2 an inch over for a more centered position.  This small stuff sure eats up a lot of time  Smiley
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steelybill
C3
***
Posts: 190


« Reply #108 on: May 21, 2011, 07:54:49 PM »

 My most recent work was installing new trans cooler lines, from Inline Tube. Should have done that before I put the body back on.  I had to remove the starter, radiator, AC condenser, fan shroud etc, to be able to fish the lines in along-side the engine.  The lines were for a Chevy big block & TH400 of course, but they fit OK with a bit of hand-bending to get them tweaked into position.  I don't have the fender wells or front fenders on right now, making access a bit better.
  Inline Tube is making up a pair of stainless braided front brake lines for me, a bit longer than stock.  The stock lines I have seem too short when the front wheels turn lock-to-lock.  And I also bolted on a new master cylinder, with new stainless lines down to the prop. valve.
  I may get this thing done someday !
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steelybill
C3
***
Posts: 190


« Reply #109 on: July 23, 2011, 07:57:24 PM »

 I now finally have the doors and front fenders on and aligned.  That was a pain in the butt, but luckily I have a door support rack for removing & installing doors.  These doors weigh 115 lbs each, without upholstery/door panels, and are 59 3/4" long.
 It's been too hot aroud here to get very much done lately, but it's coming along......
..
  I still have to get at the hood, and strip the paint off to bare metal.  I'll likely bolt it on to check for clearance above the air cleaner, before any paint prep etc.
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interst8er
C1
*
Posts: 3



« Reply #110 on: September 30, 2012, 03:32:29 PM »

Hi Steelybil

I just found this thread. My compliments to you and the Elco. It's good to see 73-77 GM A bodies are starting be used more for car projects. I havent read through the entire thread but I'm interested to see the completion of your car.

If your interested here's a link to my 74 Cutlass with a Caddy motor>> http://www.cardomain.com/ride/466994/1974-oldsmobile-cutlass-supreme.

Since my last posts on CarDomain I've installed adjustable tubular upper arms so I could get rid of the shims and for more exhaust clearance. Quick Ratio steering box and solid motor mounts I made to make the engine sit lower in the car.

Cheers Eugene
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~JM~
Shop Keeper
C5
*****
Posts: 1853


« Reply #111 on: October 01, 2012, 09:43:22 AM »

Greetings Interst8er,

Very cool car you have built there! Please consider starting a new thread with the details on your car & the build. It looks like you've done a great job. Do you have any problems with passing smog inspections & registration?

Thanks
~JM~
Logged

PS. You don't have enough cam. Grin

...Summit has a kit for $99.... Shocked
interst8er
C1
*
Posts: 3



« Reply #112 on: October 09, 2012, 09:00:19 PM »

JM ...thanks for the compliments. I haven't had any issues with smog or registration. In California anything pre 1976 is smog exempt. I currently starting to redo the engine with bigger valves in the head plus port work.
I'll start a new thread soon.
I sure wouldn't mind seeing a section on "Cadillac engines in A bodies"'

Eugene
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Monzallac425
C4
****
Posts: 491


Salinas, Puerto Rico


« Reply #113 on: June 07, 2013, 05:53:41 PM »

How about a Cadillac in a 73 and up A body?  Ever been done ? Never heard or seen one............. Huh?


Doug in P.R. Cool
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Monzallac 425 ....now on its 4th owner....Its still alive.............Somewhere.........?
steelybill
C3
***
Posts: 190


« Reply #114 on: November 16, 2013, 06:55:28 PM »

Mine is an A body....'73 through '77 Chevelles, El Caminos etc.  Mine is a '75 Elco.  No room for headers by the way, and the right manifold will touch the front bolt on the upper suspension control arm, so 3/8 to 1/2 inch needs to be cut off of what sticks out there....

Old thread, but just wanted to verify a Caddy fit in an A body.....
Logged

~JM~
Shop Keeper
C5
*****
Posts: 1853


« Reply #115 on: November 17, 2013, 08:25:50 AM »

Mine is an A body....'73 through '77 Chevelles, El Caminos etc.  Mine is a '75 Elco.  No room for headers by the way, and the right manifold will touch the front bolt on the upper suspension control arm, so 3/8 to 1/2 inch needs to be cut off of what sticks out there....

Old thread, but just wanted to verify a Caddy fit in an A body.....

Hey SteelyBill,

How is that Caddy powered Elco been treating you? Any good "Road Kill" or Road Trip stories?

Thanks
~JM~
Logged

PS. You don't have enough cam. Grin

...Summit has a kit for $99.... Shocked
steelybill
C3
***
Posts: 190


« Reply #116 on: November 17, 2013, 06:35:28 PM »

  It's actually ready for paint, but it got too cold here to get it done.  I've resisted thoughts of taking it out for a spin...and getting it dirty before painting....

 My exhaust is all stainless steel, with various sections of tubing TIG welded together to get it fitted. I have band type clamps on the whole system, to make it easier to remove sections, if the trans ever needs to come out, etc.
 I used Borla stainless mufflers.  Not too loud, but throaty ! Smiley

My timing is at 18 degrees initial, with 35 total, and using a Crane limiter plate in the vac canister on the HEI.
  Seems to rev quick for a big engine....
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~JM~
Shop Keeper
C5
*****
Posts: 1853


« Reply #117 on: November 17, 2013, 07:31:24 PM »

What a dilemma. I'd be dying to take it out.

I suppose if you have it all prepped for paint, it's better to be patient & wait.

Good luck
~JM~
Logged

PS. You don't have enough cam. Grin

...Summit has a kit for $99.... Shocked
steelybill
C3
***
Posts: 190


« Reply #118 on: November 19, 2013, 07:14:32 PM »

My only recent work has been trying to stop the oil pan on the TH400 from leaking/seeping at the gasket.  After removing the pan 3 times to fool with it, I bought a cast aluminum stock size ( for road clearance) oil pan from Summit. It seems to have stopped any leaks or seepage so far......fingers are crossed  Smiley

Fooling with draining & removing the pan isn't my idea of getting anything done.   I have a mop bucket with mineral spirits in it, for car & airplane messes, which helps...
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~JM~
Shop Keeper
C5
*****
Posts: 1853


« Reply #119 on: November 20, 2013, 07:45:19 AM »

I used a deep sump finned cast aluminum pan on my Jeep. No leaks. The tin pans look like you pretty much have to use a thick cork gasket & an inch/pound torque wrench to make sure all the fasteners are tightened the same. Then go around it 3 or 4 times over a few days to compress the gasket. You should like that aluminum pan. Does it have a drain plug for future mess free (or less mess anyway) servicing?

I have to pull my intake manifold & re-seal it. I have a leak in the front corner. Angry At least it's on top instead of crawling underneath.

Good luck
~JM~
Logged

PS. You don't have enough cam. Grin

...Summit has a kit for $99.... Shocked
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