High Performance Big Block Cadillacs
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Author Topic: front springs for 1986 Cutlass??  (Read 7610 times)
cutlass472
C1
*
Posts: 16


« on: November 19, 2010, 03:09:26 PM »

Hey guys need some help with front springs, got the 472 in an running!! Love it, took it down the road, gassed up but need springs bad. Any recommendations? Haven't been on here for a long time, but now ready to finish the cutlass up!
Thanks,
Todd
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~JM~
Shop Keeper
C5
*****
Posts: 1853


« Reply #1 on: November 19, 2010, 05:16:52 PM »

Hey Todd,

Have you seen this link before?
http://caddy500.com/index.php?topic=453.0

You will have to click on the link at the bottom & open it on your computer. Please let me know if you have any problems with it.

Thanks
~JM~
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PS. You don't have enough cam. Grin

...Summit has a kit for $99.... Shocked
cutlass472
C1
*
Posts: 16


« Reply #2 on: November 19, 2010, 09:17:11 PM »

thanks jm, will give it a look!!
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cutlass472
C1
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Posts: 16


« Reply #3 on: November 20, 2010, 06:35:22 AM »

cant pull up the chart jm,wonder if anyone has got the number of the springs I need an where to order them!! Have called every place , an on one seems to know anything!! All I get is stock springs, any help is app.!!  thanks
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dave brode
C5
*****
Posts: 1074


Best of 11.66, 113.96, 1.59 sixty


« Reply #4 on: November 20, 2010, 09:08:10 AM »

Todd,

The cars with the 307 olds may have stronger springs. I know a guy with an '86 Cutlass with a 406 chev that had a 307 olds. It sits pretty high in the front. The olds engine must be heavier.
 
The downsized '78-'81 A body cars [often incorrectly referred to as G body] that came with the 350 olds diesel may have even stronger springs, as the diesel was heavier than the gas olds. I ASSume that they use the same style springs as the G.

Wagon springs may be stronger yet, esp back springs, but to a lesser extent, the front springs for a wagon may be stronger too.

Dave
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3960 lb '71 C-10. 11.7-1 CR 514". PEP I beam rods floating MTS 18cc dish Probes, Elgin solid cam, home ported heads, MTS 2.19/1.84", Potter/Probe shaft rockers, edel 2115, 4781 850. Switch-pitch TH400, 12" 1800/3200 Tri-Shield convertor, 4.30 gears. Best so far of 11.66, 114.8 mph and 1.59 sixty
~JM~
Shop Keeper
C5
*****
Posts: 1853


« Reply #5 on: November 20, 2010, 11:24:53 AM »

Here.... Try this link.
http://www.maliburacing.com/coilspring.htm

This chart shows the various Moog springs & their spring rates, etc. Some of the F-Body & S-10 springs look promising.

~JM~
« Last Edit: November 20, 2010, 01:50:16 PM by ~JM~ » Logged

PS. You don't have enough cam. Grin

...Summit has a kit for $99.... Shocked
robocop
C1
*
Posts: 4


« Reply #6 on: November 20, 2010, 11:23:40 PM »

I have a '87 Cutlass with a 500.  I used front springs off a 307 Olds powered Cutlass.  Got them in a junkyard.  The car sits up with perfect ride height. 
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cutlass472
C1
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Posts: 16


« Reply #7 on: November 21, 2010, 07:55:20 PM »

Thanks Robocop!! does the car handle well? Have been told that they push bad in the turns because of the extra weight, trying to ask so I don't have to get into the trial an error game.   
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Vern
C2
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Posts: 60


« Reply #8 on: November 25, 2010, 07:54:42 PM »

I had the aluminum intake & lighter pulley bracket system from a 368/425 in two cars one had regular springs from a 307 AC car the other had the not as soft springs from a g-body 442.  Both handled fine and sat well with new poly end links the thicker stiffer "F-41" code sway bars and later 36mm hollow from bar.  The regular 307 springs were a little too soft but still handled well due to the sway bar. 
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87 Olds 442, 509 Cad, 800 Q-jet, Alum intake, Street portd heads, 230@50 528lift cam, Headers, 200-4r 2800 stall lock-up convertr, Electric fans & intank fuel pump, AC, 17mpg hwy

87 Buick GN, TE-60 turbo, stretch intercoolr, 42.5lb injector, 3" downpipe, Meth/water injection~Both 2 run 11.8ish113
cutlass472
C1
*
Posts: 16


« Reply #9 on: November 29, 2010, 04:58:16 AM »

Thanks Vern, tried to email you for some info but could not get you. Can you tell me what wheel an tire size you used? think I will bite the bullet an get new ones!!Gettin real close to drive and can't wait. Car sounds great!!
 
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robocop
C1
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Posts: 4


« Reply #10 on: November 30, 2010, 07:09:55 PM »

My Supreme has 307 G body front springs and the original 3.8 liter rear springs.  It still sits up a little in back like a 70's high school musclecar.  Long ago I found a smashed Buick Grand National in a junkyard and salvaged the thick front sway bar and installed that.  It didn't seem to make much of a difference in handling until I found a V8 rear bar and installed it.  After that, with the V6 still in it it handled very well.  It was fun to throw it into turns and slide on dry pavement a little. A few years ago I installed the 500 and the handling did deteriorate but not much.  I located a 1" thick aftermarket rear bar for the car, make unknown and put that in.  The rear is a 8.5" out of a GN also, 3.08 gears.  Actually I think it handles very well now; I dive into expressway exit ramps at high speeds.  I'm running 215R65-15 tires on Olds SS III wheels.  The shocks are ancient Gabriels I should replace. I like the all Olds exterior look.  They are kind of heavy but they didn't cost much.  My 500 has the Edelbrock intake and the same guy who sold me the rear bar had an aluminum hood and I put that on as well.  I have an aluminum radiator.  I did keep the a/c - this is Florida. So I saved some weight up front.  I understand there's an aluminum core support for some G bodies but I've never seen one.  Right now I notice I have a lot of wheel hop when I take off hard, tires spinning,  I really have to start with changing the rear control arm bushings. 
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Vern
C2
**
Posts: 60


« Reply #11 on: December 09, 2010, 04:55:47 PM »

15x7 Chrome Olds 442 ralleys in the front and widened 15x8s in the rear.  235/60/15s up front which are the same height as the 215/65 just a little wider.  In the back I first ran 275/60/15s which I liked.  I later ran 255/70/15s to help offset a gear change but did not like them.  Maybe the 29" tall 255s would have looked better with a taller front tire.  If you lookup "dogshit" on www.gbodyforum.com you can see several pics of the car with both motor & tire pics.

Robocop, New rear control arms will solve the wheel hop as it will hold the rear more flat & square with less bind. Partly from better bushings and partly from eliminating the flimsy three side arm.  Eliminating the bind help to put more of that torque to use accelerating your car instead of twisting the frame etc.  I also used a factory "F-41" rear sway bar.  A good posi and especially at least a passenger side rear air bag will help (by pre loading the suspension) to put the same amount of downforce on both tires.  Last, in the rear suspension department adjustable uppers to make the car plant the tires instead of lift the rear (and unload the suspension & tires) will help a lot.  I used the Edlebrock double adjustables which were priced well and make adjusting it much easier.

Oh yea I am sorry drag radials helped a ton as well.  I also thought some adjustable drag shocks up front would help to transfer weight and wanted to try a pair set to 70/30 for Caddy torque and street car use but never got to.   
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87 Olds 442, 509 Cad, 800 Q-jet, Alum intake, Street portd heads, 230@50 528lift cam, Headers, 200-4r 2800 stall lock-up convertr, Electric fans & intank fuel pump, AC, 17mpg hwy

87 Buick GN, TE-60 turbo, stretch intercoolr, 42.5lb injector, 3" downpipe, Meth/water injection~Both 2 run 11.8ish113
cutlass472
C1
*
Posts: 16


« Reply #12 on: December 19, 2010, 07:48:04 AM »

 Thanks for the info Vern!! Got the front end tore down now an ready to go back, hope to get it done after Christmas!!
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