High Performance Big Block Cadillacs
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Author Topic: wheel an tires for 86 cutlass  (Read 4289 times)
cutlass472
C1
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Posts: 16


« on: September 22, 2011, 05:23:38 AM »

Hey guys need a little advice on wheels and tires for my cutlass, put new springs in the front. Sets good that 472 is heavy!! Is there a web page where you can see the wheels an tires on the car? thanks for your help !
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MTS Marty
C4
****
Posts: 282


« Reply #1 on: September 22, 2011, 08:08:42 AM »

you might try www.tirerack.com
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~JM~
Shop Keeper
C5
*****
Posts: 1853


« Reply #2 on: September 22, 2011, 11:17:23 AM »

American Racing use to have a site that you could pull up a car & change the wheels, tires, ride height, etc. I just looked at their site & was unable to find that feature again.

Are you trying to determine what size you can run, or need to see different wheels & how they look?

I have 2 G-Body cars. One with 15" wheels & one with 17". I don't know the back-spacing on the 17's, but I could try to measure it for you. Seems like the 15's were 3.5".

~JM~
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PS. You don't have enough cam. Grin

...Summit has a kit for $99.... Shocked
Vern
C2
**
Posts: 60


« Reply #3 on: October 06, 2011, 07:31:41 PM »

The 442 had a little stiffer spring than a regular Cutlass.  Still soft by todays standards but I thing 420 pounds per inch vs 346.  Anyway it was stiff enough but I did use a stiffer lighter 36mm hollow sway bar and an aluminum intake and the lighter pulleys & brackets from an 81 368 ie no smog & only two belts. So my 500 was not that much heavier than the original 307. Anyway I ran 235/60/15 on the factory 15x7s ralleys up front and 275/60/15s on the rear with a 15x8 widened stock 442 rim. The 235/60 is almost the exact height of the factory 215/65/15 so speedometer and odometer remain accurate.  The 195/75/14s that came on generic Gs were only slightly shorter.
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87 Olds 442, 509 Cad, 800 Q-jet, Alum intake, Street portd heads, 230@50 528lift cam, Headers, 200-4r 2800 stall lock-up convertr, Electric fans & intank fuel pump, AC, 17mpg hwy

87 Buick GN, TE-60 turbo, stretch intercoolr, 42.5lb injector, 3" downpipe, Meth/water injection~Both 2 run 11.8ish113
~JM~
Shop Keeper
C5
*****
Posts: 1853


« Reply #4 on: October 06, 2011, 07:59:42 PM »

Hey Vern,

How you been doing? Any new projects on your end? I've been mostly messing around with my T-Type. Just swapped to a Walbro fuel pump, Hotwire Kit & a Bosch 237 fuel pressure regulator in preparation for a Turbo Tweak chip & a Scan-Master. Next will be a new 3" Down-Pipe & exhaust system. These cars are sure a lot of fun!

~JM~
Logged

PS. You don't have enough cam. Grin

...Summit has a kit for $99.... Shocked
Vern
C2
**
Posts: 60


« Reply #5 on: November 28, 2011, 11:26:27 AM »

Jm. They sure are.  Sounds like good bang for the buck core parts you are on the right track.  The single best upgrade after scantool & fuel pump etc wad Razors alcohol injection.  Higher boost on pump gas and you only use it at WOT after crossing 10psi.

No new projects yet.  Wait 237 you need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
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87 Olds 442, 509 Cad, 800 Q-jet, Alum intake, Street portd heads, 230@50 528lift cam, Headers, 200-4r 2800 stall lock-up convertr, Electric fans & intank fuel pump, AC, 17mpg hwy

87 Buick GN, TE-60 turbo, stretch intercoolr, 42.5lb injector, 3" downpipe, Meth/water injection~Both 2 run 11.8ish113
~JM~
Shop Keeper
C5
*****
Posts: 1853


« Reply #6 on: November 28, 2011, 12:10:13 PM »

The 237 regulator bumps up the pressure to the correct range for the Turbo-Tweek chip.

Any drawbacks to the Alky systems? So far I have been avoiding adding another system to maintain.

Thanks
~JM~
Logged

PS. You don't have enough cam. Grin

...Summit has a kit for $99.... Shocked
Vern
C2
**
Posts: 60


« Reply #7 on: November 29, 2011, 09:01:25 AM »

Yea but at some point you are going to want to turn up the boost and then you will probably want the adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Just for what its worth.  Grin  I know what your saying with regards to adding another system or more variables to work with.  Its just like other mods or tuning at the track try to isolate and work with one variable at a time otherwise no downsides.  I have had mine for a few years and have had no problem with it.  I run a 50/50 meth water mix for the best combination of power and safety. Meth can be very hard on cheaper kits that are set up for iso alky.  Razor's kit is well tested thought out and has the needed parts quality to for Methanol. He is also available and reliable help if you need it.

I am pretty diligent about keep it simple and one thing at a time though. Thanks to the internet and the been there done that crowd the learning curve is not bad on these.  It was in the 80s when people would fly in the blind run 87 and wick up the boost on a weak voltage stock fuel pump to boot.  Then they would blame the car when they popped the head gaskets.   These things require a little more patience than a naturally aspirated motor as small tuning mistakes escalate quicker.  The upside to that is that small adjustments also can yield big results.  Being able to run high boost at anytime without having to waist race fuel when I am just driving is very cool and both allows you to always be ready and never waist money.  When you are able to run fast safely on a good tune you will be ready and happy with this upgrade.
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87 Olds 442, 509 Cad, 800 Q-jet, Alum intake, Street portd heads, 230@50 528lift cam, Headers, 200-4r 2800 stall lock-up convertr, Electric fans & intank fuel pump, AC, 17mpg hwy

87 Buick GN, TE-60 turbo, stretch intercoolr, 42.5lb injector, 3" downpipe, Meth/water injection~Both 2 run 11.8ish113
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