High Performance Big Block Cadillacs
September 21, 2017, 07:01:34 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: SMF - Just Installed!
 
   Home   Help Login Register  
Pages: [1]
  Print  
Author Topic: 1987 Olds 442 with 509cid caddy motor and 200R4 wanting to install a TH400  (Read 11555 times)
jaholmes1817
C1
*
Posts: 2


« on: October 17, 2012, 11:50:31 AM »

I am looking to swap a TH400 in place of the 200R4. My vehicle weighs app. #3200 and has a 3.73 rearend. The motor in the car was built from MTS and makes around 400HP and 500 Ft pounds of tourque. I am curious to know what stalh speed convertor I should use??? So many variations and brands. I know a very low stalh would be the best but not sure exactly?? The vehicle is going to be used as a street/strip car and want as much performance as possible. The car redlines under 5,000 rpm and makes huge low end power. Can anyone help...??  Thanks.
Logged
~JM~
Shop Keeper
C5
*****
Posts: 1853


« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2012, 10:59:13 AM »

I would contact MTS with your camshaft specs & see what they recommend.

Why would you want to swap to a trans that does not have over-drive? If you do swap to a TH400, you will most likely need to run a higher gear in the rear-end.

Good luck
~JM~
Logged

PS. You don't have enough cam. Grin

...Summit has a kit for $99.... Shocked
jaholmes1817
C1
*
Posts: 2


« Reply #2 on: October 22, 2012, 05:50:13 AM »

I will try to contact MTS for there advice. The reason for the transmission change is the 200R4 was rebuilt when I bought the vehicle but is not right..sluggish shifts and does not shift gears hard like it should. Feels like something is slipping and going to break. The TH400 can handle the power and I plan on drag racing the car here and there. Loosing the overdrive is no big deal to me and plan on driving on the weekends locally and to some shows. Thanks for the advice.
Logged
Vern
C2
**
Posts: 60


« Reply #3 on: January 07, 2013, 11:56:06 PM »

I'm fairly certain this is my old car.  My car as in I built the motor (me & pro builder friend after hours in the race engine shop that he worked for) I also had the trans built car painted & installed everything.  I sourced most of my parts from MTS but not the cam.  FWIW the cam specs were in the glove box and the fellow I sold it to knew they were in there.  You are correct with proper tune max HP will be at about 4,800 with that cam. I used a built (furnace brazed anti ballooning etc) 2,800 stall lock up converter but with a th400 would probably use 2,400. I used that much stall because it was a lock up converter and had an overdrive trans also because for traction & ideal 1/4 mile gearing was using a 29" tire.  The goal being to go through the eyes at 115 mph at 5,000 rpms in 3rd. (power to weight gearing & tire)  

Dialing in a carb & timing along with a new MTS 15 cam, VT-59 Shaft mounted roller tipped rocker assembly (1.70 ratio) properly set up and that thing should run mid-high 11s at about 115 like it is its job.  Reliably and on pump premium. This would also be the safe practical limit of this build on several fronts.  FWIW It does have street ported small chamber 2.19 1.75 valve heads, balanced rotating assembly, reconditioned stock rods with ARP bolts, measured calculated compression of 10.0-1, and as you know headers.

Edit that is with a great tune, drag radials, and the current converter.  Slicks & a high dollar custom converter could get a 11.50/60 IMO and naturally good suspension tuning.

I had an 800-Q-jet pro built with the right hangers but in need of the right jets when it left me. fwiw Fuel pressure gauge under my windshield wiper showed no fuel pressure drop and pulled cleanly at WOT from zero to 130+ mph so the pump carb & setup is up to it. The lack of cam lift & cheap rocker setup I used which has a ratio of about 1.50 left a lot of power on the table.  It still ran 110 without timing etc adjustments on its get acquainted passes.    

IMO the fellow I sold it to made some blunders and messed a few things up worse being improper TV adjustments and forgetting what the transmission temp guage I had installed was ie roasting the trans.  Instead of allowing 200-4R guru and original builder Lonnie Diers of Extreme Automatics now in Cincinnati to refresh/rebuild it for $350 + parts (he didn't know that) he took it to a local to him shop.  A "well know reputable shop" IMO they grossly overcharged him and attempted their first "built" 200-4 that did not make 500 miles.. then promptly did not stand behind their work.  Naturally with my transmission choice my objectives for the car were different then yours. But even with the tall 29" tire the low first gear & stall would bang it out of the hole.  It was setup to shift WOT at 5,200 slightly past peak HP.

If you want to drive it locally with the 3.73s, th400, & 28 or shorter tires.. don't leave town because it would suck to scorch a bearing & ruin a motor because of it. Not that I would be afraid to drive that combo just that I would not want to spin it hard for a prolonged period.  If I can be of any other help let me know.


EDIT  BTW the coated headers have O2 bungs welded into them at the collectors for easy wide ban tuning.
« Last Edit: January 17, 2013, 08:52:05 AM by Vern » Logged

87 Olds 442, 509 Cad, 800 Q-jet, Alum intake, Street portd heads, 230@50 528lift cam, Headers, 200-4r 2800 stall lock-up convertr, Electric fans & intank fuel pump, AC, 17mpg hwy

87 Buick GN, TE-60 turbo, stretch intercoolr, 42.5lb injector, 3" downpipe, Meth/water injection~Both 2 run 11.8ish113
~JM~
Shop Keeper
C5
*****
Posts: 1853


« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2013, 08:10:54 PM »

Hey Vern,

When this post first appeared, I had a feeling that it was the same car that you had spent so much time, effort & detail in building. There can't be that many car's out there with the same combination.

How you been doing? Do you still have your T/R? Any new work or mods done on it? I have been keeping mine under wraps in the garage for now to keep the mileage down. Plus I still have a cold starting issue that I have been unable to resolve.

Good to hear from you
~JM~
Logged

PS. You don't have enough cam. Grin

...Summit has a kit for $99.... Shocked
Vern
C2
**
Posts: 60


« Reply #5 on: January 09, 2013, 10:01:28 PM »

Hey JM,

Been doing alright thanks for asking.  Yes I still have my GN no new mods but I have been thinking about it.  First things first though.  I would talk to Steve Wood about the cold starting.  www.vortexbuicks-etc.com.  And yes at times I miss ye ol Caddy powered 442 it was a very fun car.   
Logged

87 Olds 442, 509 Cad, 800 Q-jet, Alum intake, Street portd heads, 230@50 528lift cam, Headers, 200-4r 2800 stall lock-up convertr, Electric fans & intank fuel pump, AC, 17mpg hwy

87 Buick GN, TE-60 turbo, stretch intercoolr, 42.5lb injector, 3" downpipe, Meth/water injection~Both 2 run 11.8ish113
~JM~
Shop Keeper
C5
*****
Posts: 1853


« Reply #6 on: January 12, 2013, 12:03:26 PM »

Hey JM,

Been doing alright thanks for asking.  Yes I still have my GN no new mods but I have been thinking about it.  First things first though.  I would talk to Steve Wood about the cold starting.  www.vortexbuicks-etc.com.  And yes at times I miss ye ol Caddy powered 442 it was a very fun car.   

Thanks for the link. I have checked out that site before, but it was a long time ago & I need to go over it again. The car acts like it has a fuel delivery related issue, but I have damn near completely gone through the fuel system. It only happens after the car has sat overnight, or for a long period. It acts as if the fuel system has lost prime & takes 4 or 5 long starter motor cranking sessions for it to finally fire off. After that, it runs & starts just fine. If it was a carbureted engine with a mechanical fuel pump, you would swear that the fuel line has emptied & it requires that much cranking to re-prime. I have installed a fuel pressure test gauge & gone through the start sequence & everything checked out properly. I can't recall the correct sequence of events & pressures required for ignition to take place at this time, but I was up to speed on the requirements at the time & the system was operating correctly. I have begun to think that there may be something wrong with the camshaft sensor. It is an odd problem & more than one fairly sharp T/R guy have been left scratching their heads.
Logged

PS. You don't have enough cam. Grin

...Summit has a kit for $99.... Shocked
Vern
C2
**
Posts: 60


« Reply #7 on: January 13, 2013, 11:50:46 AM »

Might sound odd.. but I had a similar experience with mine once upon a time.  It sounds like the beginning of a coil pack & or module going bad.  If you have access to another known good one that you can swap for some tests.  If not regardless in time if its the case you will see more other issues that lead you back to the coil pack/module.  When JM gets determined it will get resolved.   Grin   
Logged

87 Olds 442, 509 Cad, 800 Q-jet, Alum intake, Street portd heads, 230@50 528lift cam, Headers, 200-4r 2800 stall lock-up convertr, Electric fans & intank fuel pump, AC, 17mpg hwy

87 Buick GN, TE-60 turbo, stretch intercoolr, 42.5lb injector, 3" downpipe, Meth/water injection~Both 2 run 11.8ish113
~JM~
Shop Keeper
C5
*****
Posts: 1853


« Reply #8 on: January 15, 2013, 06:07:17 PM »

"When JM gets determined it will get resolved."

                 Thanks for the vote of confidence! It has been placed on the back burner for a while, so that I can think about & pursue other issues for now.  Grin Grin Grin

~JM~
Logged

PS. You don't have enough cam. Grin

...Summit has a kit for $99.... Shocked
Pages: [1]
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.20 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!