High Performance Big Block Cadillacs
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Author Topic: I'm a new guy here  (Read 7373 times)
LIFESTYLZ
C1
*
Posts: 4


« on: April 10, 2009, 04:57:48 PM »

Couldn't find a "welcome new Guy" thread so here I am.

I'm an NZ Kiwi.
I have a '49 Lincoln coupe that I have dropped a 500 Caddy into.
The caddy is an engine I know little about apart from it being
the most awesome choice for my car.
A few pics of where I am up to at the moment



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Dale
C1
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Posts: 12


« Reply #1 on: April 10, 2009, 05:25:46 PM »

Cool
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c20caddy
C2
**
Posts: 23



« Reply #2 on: April 10, 2009, 06:11:51 PM »

 that otta make for one neat ride i love old iron.
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1978 c20 507cad powered
~JM~
Shop Keeper
C5
*****
Posts: 1853


« Reply #3 on: April 10, 2009, 06:48:03 PM »

Welcome to the board. Your car looks very cool! Cool

What is it like to try & build a car in New Zealand vs. some of the other countries like the USA?

I am located in the top left corner of the US in the Pacific Northwest region. Travel from here to your part of the world is being heavily promoted right now. The commercials make your area look like paradise. Especially after several days of rain & very little sunshine. I'd like to go, but I'm afraid that I would not want to return. Grin
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PS. You don't have enough cam. Grin

...Summit has a kit for $99.... Shocked
LIFESTYLZ
C1
*
Posts: 4


« Reply #4 on: April 10, 2009, 08:30:20 PM »

You are right about the Paradise here.
This is such a beautiful country and only about
a thousand or so miles from end to end.
Travel is easy and on good roads.

Hot Rodding is huge in New Zealand.
Google it and find out.
We have many custom and rod shops doing amazing work.

My ride.

Original Lincoln chassis fully boxed and custom crossmembers etc.
XJ6 Jag front subframe grafted on which gives more modern front
suspension, disc brakes and power rack n pinion steering.
Rear is complete XJ6 Jag independent setup, diff etc built
on a custom made crossmember which is rubber mounted.

Body sits a lot lower than stock but should make a cool cruiser.
Top will be chopped 5 inches and custom interior done.
Custom grille being built and not sure of paint type, color yet.
Suggestions, comments welcome.
Have more pics if you want to see them.

The caddy engine will remain basically stock initially.
What would you do to it?

This will be a user car, not a show machine.

Cheers from down under.

Clive.

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sMiles
C4
****
Posts: 321


« Reply #5 on: April 17, 2009, 11:12:47 AM »


Welcome, Clive, to the board.   What a wonderful project you have started.  I like the rear set of the engine near the firewall,  any additional weight you can put on the rear will improve the handling and traction.   The suspension you nave chosen has inharently good handling qualities,  I am not familiar whether the doner car uses anti-sway bars front and rear but I would use them if it does.  If not,  find a WS6 Pontiac Trans Am,  this has large size bars with mount easily adaptable to your chassis. Z28's are near the same,  1970-81 (2nd Gen) and the 3rd Gen should work.  I adapted them to my '47 Olds easily.    Mine is a driver also.   I am nearing the dyno of a new 496" Cad (472 with a 4.15 stroke and 4.36 bore) so stay tuned. 

With yours I would be concerned with the torque of the Cad vs the Jag IRS.  I would want to know more than I do now.  This my be unfounded but I would keep the engine stock to mild till I did know how strong the IRS is handling 500-600 lbs-ft.   The other thing is the rear gear ratio.  For cruising / street the 2.73-3.21 range with the TH400 is popular here with the OD trans guys using 3.42 or so.  You do not want to gear this like a Chevy and rpm it.   The Edlebrock 2115 is a good street intake manifold.

I hope you will keep us posted as you go through this build.

Miles
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MTS-EAST
C3
***
Posts: 126


« Reply #6 on: April 17, 2009, 07:50:51 PM »

  Welcome

  Both Carter and Clinton at some point had said that if the had to leave the US to live elsewhere it would be NZ.

  Welcome to the forum and if you need parts or advice Marty and I would be glad to help you with either.

  JW
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mt83
C3
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Posts: 184


I build go fast toys.


WWW
« Reply #7 on: April 24, 2009, 07:50:37 AM »

I like the ride.  I'm a ford guy but I build big caddys cause they are cool.  Welcome enjoy and take in what you can.  There is a lot of knowledge on this board.  Hope it helps with your build.
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Matt @ Cadillac Performance Parts
www.cadillacperformanceparts.com
LIFESTYLZ
C1
*
Posts: 4


« Reply #8 on: August 01, 2010, 06:16:10 PM »

Hi Guys.
Sorry I haven't been back for a while.
Computer hassles and life itself getting in the way.

Re questions from above.
I am using Jag front and rear sway bars.
The Lincoln with the Caddy in it is actually lighter than the
original car was. It had a Big Block 337 Flathead Ford/Merc/Lincoln  Engine.
The diff ratio is 3.07 to 1 so should be perfect.
I have gone back to the original Jag cage housing for the diff.
As it's a driver and not a show car it makes sense to utilize
what Jag spent millions designing. The ride will be awesome.

Slow progress last 6 months as the economy is killing my business.
I am in Construction/housing.

I have mounted a 90 degree mater brake unit and booster up behind the dash
as I wanted a clean firewall which will be polished Aluminium.
'70 Chrysler Imperial 6 way power leather seats.
'80 Caddy tilt column.
At the moment I have polished Centerlines on it.
That may change.
Griffin Alloy Radiator and trans cooler as well.

That's about all for now.
It's lunchtime here.
So back to work for me.


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LIFESTYLZ
C1
*
Posts: 4


« Reply #9 on: August 01, 2010, 06:18:22 PM »

By the way.
If you want to see a lot of build pics.
Check this out.

http://www.nz-hotrod.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=4984
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steelybill
C3
***
Posts: 190


« Reply #10 on: August 01, 2010, 06:36:49 PM »


 Cool old car.......and I remember those when they were new!  The body lines remind me of the Mercurys of those years.  Have fun with the project Smiley
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sMiles
C4
****
Posts: 321


« Reply #11 on: August 02, 2010, 06:23:19 AM »


Hey Clive,
               Glad you are back among us.   Even though the economy sucks there as well as here,  we can at least do the stuff that takes a lot of time but not much money.

Keep after it and  we'll both be on the road with sMiles on our faces ..
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~JM~
Shop Keeper
C5
*****
Posts: 1853


« Reply #12 on: August 02, 2010, 03:26:13 PM »

...with sMiles on our faces...

Oh man... If Mario were to see this...  Shocked  Cheesy
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PS. You don't have enough cam. Grin

...Summit has a kit for $99.... Shocked
dave brode
C5
*****
Posts: 1074


Best of 11.66, 113.96, 1.59 sixty


« Reply #13 on: August 05, 2010, 10:31:23 PM »

Cheers Clive,



The caddy engine will remain basically stock initially.
What would you do to it?



I see an egr valve, and HEI, but it looks like it has tin crank pullies? '73 or '74 472? [afaik, '75 and '76 rwd 500s have cast iron bottom pulley, at least here].

You wish to run it w/o internal work, I assume?

Minimum;

Check valve seals. They are plastic, and glued to the retainers. Usually broken, and pieces end up in the lifter valley, and oil screen. They are expensive, as they come glued to new retainers. I prefer generic umbrella seals that ride on the valve [cheaper too]. Many that are sold for sb chevy will work, but make sure that you have seal to spring clearance.

I would check timing chain and sprockets. You can determine play in chain by removing spark plugs and belts, and turning crank by hand. You'll be able to feel the slop in chain. More than 4 or 5 degrees slop means really loose chain. Stock cam sprocket is plastic coated [for noise], and the plastic fails, and pieces also often ends up in oil screen. Stock replacement type Cloyes brand is fine [iron top spocket and $30 ish here], but do NOT hammer bottom sprocket into place. Polish crank so it'll slide on by hand.

Pull pan and clean oil screen. Replace "soft plugs". Note Felpro timing cover gasket set and pan gaskets are good. The front cover set [timing set] comes with oil pump gasket [hard to find w/o buying an oil pump].

Check mechanical advance weights. They often rust and become less apt to function properly. Check vac advance can. Diaphragm is know to fail.

If you wish to "tune";


I would want 16-20* at idle, 34-38 at full rpm [4000+]. You will probably have to limit mechanical advance travel to fall in this range. Set rate of advance with lighter springs to you liking. I prefer a medium fast curve, in by say 2500. Add in 6-8 more from vac advance can, and use ported vac for source. You will need to limit travel of can, as it'll add too much add'l lead with a proper mechanical curve.

If you don't want to "tune":

 I might use manifold vac for vac advance source, and run a little lighter than stock springs, and advance it until it pings, and back it off 2 or 3.

note - a 68-72 intake manifold will flow a little better. If your carb has an elec choke, it should work fine on one of those. If you wish to dink with jetting, the metering rods in the rear of the Q-jet are easily changed. You can modify the stop on the secondary air doors so the rear section goes verticle if they don't now [more air flow].

The primary side should be fairly close to good, if you will leave the engine stock imo. You could try 1-2 size jets each way from stock in the front if you like to tinker.

Important! - check thermostat. Caddy used a special t-stat with an extra gizmo on the bottom that blocks a bypass hole in the block when it opens. Rweason was to give quick warm up. If a std chevy type t-stat is used, coolant will bypass constanly and engine will run hot. If chevy style stat is to be used, the hole in the block MUST be blocked with a cup plug [drill 1/16" bleed hole in cup plug.].

Dave
« Last Edit: August 05, 2010, 10:45:15 PM by dave brode » Logged

3960 lb '71 C-10. 11.7-1 CR 514". PEP I beam rods floating MTS 18cc dish Probes, Elgin solid cam, home ported heads, MTS 2.19/1.84", Potter/Probe shaft rockers, edel 2115, 4781 850. Switch-pitch TH400, 12" 1800/3200 Tri-Shield convertor, 4.30 gears. Best so far of 11.66, 114.8 mph and 1.59 sixty
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